Lacking both the rural charms of Dorfgastein and the post-imperial splendours of Badgastein, BAD HOFGASTEIN is a predominantly modern spa resort fed by the waters piped down from the head of the valley, its clinic-like hotels grouped around a pedestrianized centre bordered by leafy parks. There's nothing of any vintage save for the late-Gothic Pfarrkirche on the main square. Inside, the high altar features an early sixteenth-century Madonna and Child by a follower of Michael Pacher, flanked by contrasting eighteenth-century statuettes - featuring, from left to right, ss Rupert, Dominic, Catherine and Virgil. The whole thing is topped off by an allegory of the Holy Trinity after plans by Fischer von Erlach - the Father is on the right holding a globe, the Son on the left, and the Holy Spirit hovering between them in the form of a dove. Note, too, the cherub-bedecked pulpit featuring another traditional piece of symbolism common in areas once strongly Protestant - the outstretched arm holding a crucifix, depicting the triumph of the Catholic Church.

On the western side of the town centre, a direct route into the hills is provided by the Schlossalmbahn (June to mid-Oct & Dec-April 8am-4pm on the hour; ascent öS160/?11.68, return öS200/?14.60), which climbs in two stages: by funicular to the 1302-metre Kitzstein Alm , then by cable car to the 2051-metre Kleine Scharte , where there's a mountain café-restaurant and impressive views of the peaks over on the opposite side of the valley. About 1km south of the funicular station, roads ascend into the Angertal , an important skiing area in winter and attractive walking area in summer - but bear in mind the gondola and chairlifts here are only open during the winter season.